Yes Bad Boy Mowers is going to have a New Multi-Terrain Vehicle.

Bad Boy, Inc. is preparing to unveil the new multi-terrain vehicle (MTV) to their dealers at the 2008 Bad Boy Dealer Meeting October 5-8, 2008, and then to the public at the GIE Expo in Louisville, KY October 23-25, 2008.

They said at last year’s dealer meeting nearly 250 dealers came in from all over the world to witness the unveiling of the BBM prototype multi-terrain vehicle. The unveiling was held at the former Boeing aircraft facility in Melbourne, AR. Bad Boy also unveiled the prototype at the 2007 GIE Expo to tens of thousands of eager onlookers.

The MTV will be available to dealers beginning in 2009 when it goes into production.

What will it look like? How much will it cost? Where can you get yours? Keep your eyes open for updates on this story (here) or at Bad Boy Mowers Inc

Basic Adjustment

The basic carb adjustments are about 1 turn out for the low speed screw and 1 and a 1/2 turns out for the high speed. This should get the engine running.

Most settings for low speed are around 1 to 1 and 1/4 and 1 and 1/2 to 1 and 3/4 turns out for high speed.

Final adjustments

The LOW speed screw (Engine at Idle Speed) should be adjusted (OUT) until the engine puffs out some black smoke, runs a little rough and appears to be getting too much fuel. Then turn the screw (IN) slightly until engines runs smooth.

Next adjust the HIGH speed screw with the engine running fast (Full Throttle). Turn the HIGH speed screw (OUTWARDS) until the engine puffs black smoke or begins to run rich. Then back the screw (IN) about 1/4 turn.

Once the engine is adjust correctly, going from idle to full throttle the engine will not die, bog down, hesitate, etc.

These procedures will also work with most other small enginnes.

Bill Wright and Jim Velke introduced their first sulky in 1989, and named it “Velke” after Jim. Both men had been mechanics and innovators. Wright started out in the lawn maintenance business in Gaithersburg, Md., in 1981. Two years later, he designed and built a grass catcher for walk-behind mowers, which he called the Grass Gobbler. Velke joined his firm a couple years later and, today, the two men hold some 24 patents together.

The first Velke was a one-wheel model that the company still offers under their patented design. Wright introduced a two-wheel sulky in 1996. The Grass Gobbler is still manufactured for 20 different makes of commercial mowers, and an extension for leaf pickup, called the Leaf Gobbler, is available as well.

Wright sold his lawn maintenance operation in 1993 to concentrate on developing the Wright Stander mower, a further evolution in the quest to make mowing less fatiguing for commercial operators.

A good market for sulkies still exists. Deere’s Dan Schmidt says the walk-behind market still takes some 40,000 units every year. Many of those are candidates for sulkies.

As winter approaches, it reminds us that it is time to winterize our air cooled gasoline-powered lawn mowers . Winterizing will help extend the life of our lawn mowers. This post is for air cooled engines only. There is a lot of steps that are the same for liquid cooled engines but there is also a lot of steps that are not covered here. My next post will be for liquid cooled mowers.

The first thing I like to do is put a mixture of Fuel Stabilizer an gas in the fuel tank. Do not fill tank full, I will only put a small amount of this mixture in the tank. (We will come back to the fuel system later in this post).


Next Step: blow(with compressed air) or wipe the mower off, removing sticks, grass clippings an so on. The deck should be washed with soap and water and a stiff bristle brush, then blow the water off with compressed air. Spray the underside of the deck with W-D 40 or some other rust preventer. Clean the outside of the engine making sure to blow the air vanes that keep your air cooled engine cool. Do this with compressed air making sure to blow all debris from the air vanes.
You can wash the whole mower if you want, just be sure to dry it off as much as possible. Where I work at I washer all of our mowers with an agent called Luster. Luster has the washing detergent and polish mixed together.

Next Step: grease all grease fittings(Zerk Fittings) and a little 3 in-one oil on contact points that slide like hood hinges and etc.

Next Step: drain the crank case oil and refill with new oil. If it has a filter change the filter also. We do this to remove all the contaminants from the crank case, which could damage the internal engine parts from setting idle over the winter. If the engine has a foam air filter you can wash it with soap and water. You can dry the air filter by putting it in a clean dry towel and squeezing it dry with your hand.
Most all foam filters have to be oiled, you do this by putting a little pre-oil or 30 w motor oil on the filter an lightly work the oil through the filter. I usually put the filter back into a clean towel after putting oil on it and lightly squeeze to remove any excess oil from the filter. If your mower has a paper element filter then just put it back in for now.


Next Step: Start the mower and let it run. This will let the fuel stabilizer we put in the tank distribute through the fuel lines and the carburetor.
Make sure the mower is in a safe place with the deck up (if possible)engage the cutting blades to distribute the grease we put on the spindle bearings(grease fittings) in early steps.
Yes, we are getting close to being done so stay with me.

Next Step: In the earlier steps we put fuel stabilizer in the tank, now if your fuel tank is easy to remove, do so. Pour the gas out of tank into a clean approved container. If you can,t remove the tank try to siphon the gas from the tank into a clean approved container.

Next Step: Restart the mower and let it run until the engine goes dead or stalls.
If the tank is difficult to remove or siphon from, then fill the tank completely with the fuel/stabilizer mixture. (By filling the tank to the full level you are eliminating the air space that causes moisture).
You can remove the spark plug and add a little oil through the plug hole(about 50ml) to the cylinder and spin the engine over. I like to spin the engine over by hand or the crank rope if possible. If the mower has a electric starter just use it it briefly spin the engine over. This lubricates the cylinder wall to prevent it from rusting.

Next Step: Fill up the tires with air and store your mower in a dry place away from the weather.
Neglecting to empty the gas tank and perform other end-of-season care can shorten your mower’s life considerably, and can lead to costly repairs.

When grass cutting time gets close next spring, I will have a post telling you how to get your air cooled mower ready to mow.

A lot can be learned about your engine condition as well as what it
sees by properly reading and “understanding” your spark plugs.

This page will show you pictures as well as explanations on cause and
effect of what you see when viewing your spark plugs. Look at the spark plug porcelin for the color and condition of it.
Plug colors can tell you how the engine is running and can be very important. Plugs change colors and the different colors can explain such things as if the engine is running too hot or if the engine is worn.

The color should be read by looking at the porcelin insulator and compared to the plugs shown on the next few pictures.

 

	A tan colored plug means that the engine is running normal and the air/fuel mixture is correct. This is the correct color a spark plug should be and it tells you everything is fine with the engine. You would install a new properly gapped plug. When installing a new plug, replace the old one with the same heat range. This plug shows normal wear in the center electrode. A new plug would have square edges that helps the plug fire better.
	This plug is worn out from being used for a long period of time. Notice how the center electrode is round and worn from use. A spark plug that is worn takes a lot more voltage to fire and can cause poor engine running.
	This plug shows what can happen when something hits the spark plug. Something from inside the engine has hit the plug and this problem must be repaired before running the engine further. Make sure the spark plug is the correct length for the engine.
	Excessive detonation has caused the porcelin on this plug to break away. If this engine is allowed to run, engine damage can occur. Make sure the fuel octane is high enough for the engines requirements.
	A white colored plug is caused by engine overheating. Failure to repair this engine will result in severe engine damage. Common causes for this are: Incorrect spark plug (too hot heat range) Low octane fuel. Timing is not set properly. Cooling problems, (dirty cylinder fins, no or low water if water cooled, low or no engine oil). Carburetor air/fuel mixture is too lean (too much air). Leaking crankshaft seals, no oil, base or head gasket leaks, or crankcase leaks on two stroke engines.
	This plug has ash deposits which are light brownish deposits that are encrusted to the ground and/or center electrode. This situation is caused by the type of oil used and adding a fuel additive. This condition will cause a misfire. This can be also caused by changing oils in midstream.
	This plug is oiled fouled, caused by poor oil control.
	Pre-ignition, which will usually look as a melted center electrode and/or ground electrode. Check for incorrect heat range plug, over advanced timing, lean fuel mixtures or even hot spots or deposit accumulation inside the combustion chamber.
	Sustained Pre-ignition, which will usually look as a melted or missing center electrode and/or ground electrode as well as a destroyed insulator. Check for incorrect heat range plug, over advanced timing, lean fuel mixtures or even hot spots or deposit accumulation inside the combustion chamber.
	Splashed deposits look as if they are small islands of contaminants on the insulator. This is usually caused by dirty carburetor bores or air intake.
	A black dry fluffy colored plug is caused by deposits from a carburetor that is running too rich (too much gas), or excessive idling on some engines. Black smoke coming from the exhaust is a sign of a rich air/fuel mixture. The rich air/fuel mixture must be repaired before installing a new spark plug. Common causes for a rich air/fuel mixture are: dirty air filter. air mixture screw or carburetor needs adjusting. choke is sticking. carburetor float height is out of adjustment or float is sticking open.

 

Most Engine Starting Problems can be divided into two areas: Fuel Related or Ignition Related.

• Be sure that the machine has an ample supply of fresh fuel. For 2-cycle machines that require it, mix the proper amount of 2-cycle oil into the gasoline and shake to mix completely. Never use old or leftover fuel. Store fuel in an airtight container in a cool, dry place away from sparks and flame, and keep all vents on the can closed . Bad gas is more common than you may think, especially when starting a machine for the first time in a season. Do not store gas over the winter, pour it in your car and start fresh next year! 
• If the engine is a 4-cycle, be sure the engine oil is the right type, is clean, and is at the proper level.

   

Next step is to check for spark:

• Make sure that the ignition switch is “on”, and all attachments are disengaged and that the transmission is in neutral. Most machines have safety mechanisms that will not allow them to start or even crank over (if they have electric start)if this step is not taken. Consult your owner’s manual for the starting procedure for your machine.   

• Next- check for spark by removing the spark plug and grounding the “hex” part of the spark plug to a bare metal part of the engine or buy a Spark Plug Tester (you can get these at your local parts house cheap). Remove any spilled gasoline that is nearby, then spin the engine by pulling the rope or turning the key. You should see a blue spark jump across the plug gap. If you have a good hot spark, skip to the carb section.

• If the spark is yellow and weak, or there is no spark then the first thing to do is try a new spark plug. Do not try to clean the old one.

  

  The way a Spark Plug should look

   Set the new plug gap to the proper spec (usually 0.030″) and check for spark again. If you do see a spark, install the new plug and try to start the machine. If you still have no spark next try cleaning and setting the points on older machines, or replacing the electronic ignition module on newer machines. Before replacing the old module test it by disconnecting all the  wires from the module terminal that connect to the kill switches and recheck for spark, if you see a spark a wire or switch is defective.  Also check the flywheel key. That affects the spark timing, usually the key will

  

  Worn Spark Plug

  need replacing if you strike something while mowing and the engine stops.

 Next step is to check the carb & fuel system:

 

If the machine won’t start and the spark is good, you must make sure that fresh gasoline is getting to the carb. Make sure that the fuel shutoff valve (if present)  is opened, and that the fuel line is not plugged or kinked. Also be sure the fuel cap vent is open and any screens in the tank are clear of debris. If fuel can flow to the carb, carefully place 1 teaspoon of gasoline down the spark plug hole (or a add shot of starting fluid into the carb throat). Re-tighten the plug and try to start the machine. If it runs for a second or two, then quits, chances are the carb needs to be serviced (disassembled and cleaned & inspected, then rebuilt) or you have an air leak somewhere. Make sure all mounting screws or bolts are snug and gaskets are not missing sections. If the carb is a bowl-type check for water in the bottom of the bowl (but do not let the float swing all the way down or the float needle will fall out!). It is easy to install a carb kit yourself.

The Yazoo/Kees Kutter series of walk-behind commercial mowers offers a variety of options to meet the demands of commercial turf care. From floating or fixed deck, hydro or gear drive, pistol or our new PPS controls.
With a new IZT style transmission arrangement, these units offer minimized maintenance and reduced service, since there are no hoses, filters or reservoirs The new control system reduces hand pressure and featurs feather-light controls that are easy to operate.
The Pro Performance System controls feature an independent choke and throttle, smooth action speed control lever, electric deck engagement and digital hour meter with service reminders. Safety switches on thumb locks allow the user to leave the unit to move objects or debris, without altering the speed setting.

Engine manufacturer -Kawasaki KAI V-Twin / FH430V
Power -15 hp
Fuel tank capacity -5.3 gallons
Fuel tank capacity-5.3 gallons
Speed, forward-0-6 miles/h
Speed, reverse-0-3 miles/h
Front caster tires-9 x 3.5 – 4″
Rear tires-16 x 6.5 – 8 Turf”
Cutting width-36″
Number of blades-2
Blade length-18″
Blade tip speed-18,500 fpm
Drive system-Dual Hydro-Gear IZT Hydros
Deck Style-Fixed
Blade engagement-125 FT/LB Warner MagStop Clutch
Cutting height-1.5″ to 5″ in .25″ Increments”
Deck construction-Fully Baffled 10-Gauge Steel with Rolled Front Edge & 7-Gauge Steel Side Skirts
Handle controls-PPS (Pro Performance System)
Productivity-2 acres/hrs
Overall dimensions
Weight-460 lbs
Base machine (L)-75″
Overall width (chute up)-37″
Overall width (chute down)-47″

Just thought that some people might not know that Lawn Boy does have Zero-Turn Mowers. The one that I will be talking about today is the Precision Series – Z3500 HLX.
The Price is around $3700.00 US dollars. The mowers engine is a 21Hp Kawasaki Engine. The Kawasaki Engine is a twin cylinder engine. It has full pressure lubrication, electronic spark ignition, automatic compression release, dual element air cleaner and cast iron cylinder liner.

The unibody steel frame provides the optimal in rigidity and flexibility.

Like most commercial mowers it has a dual hydrostatic drive system, which I have had plenty of experience with these systems and they are extremely durable.

The Z3500 has a 50” deck is deep making a lot of vacuum, these deep decks cut tall grass much better.
You can adjust the deck with Lawn Boys’ foot assist height of cut (HOC) system.

The seat has a 18” high back rest which will really support your back and really has a thick pad. This seat is really comfortable. The seat also has adjustable armrest!

The mowers top forward ground speed speed is about 7 mph which is not the fastest mower but not the slowest ether.
The fuel tank on this mower is only 3 gallons which is small if you were mowing big lawns. Most of your commercial mowers have at least a 7 gallon tank.

As usual, Lawn Boy has their awesome 3 year limited warranty to stand behind you.

Model Specifications:

Engine Kawasak® Twin-Cylinder

Displacement 675 cc

Engine Construction OHV

Horsepower 21hp**

Transmission Dual Hydros

Ground Speed FWD 0 – 7.0 mph

Ground Speed REV 0 – 3.4 mph

Ignition Electric Keystart

PTO Clutch Electric

Steering Dual Wrap-Around Levers

Cutting Width 50″

Fuel Capacity 3.0 Gallons

Adjustable Arm Rests Optional

Seat 18″ High Back

Cup Holder Standard

Warranty 3-Year Limited*

 

• Nearly 75,000 Americans are seriously injured in lawn mower accidents each year. About 10,000 of those injuries involve children.
• The American Academy of Orthopedic Surgery and the American Academy of Pediatrics both recommend that children not operate a lawn mower until they are 16 years old.
• Children should never ride as a passenger on a lawn mower. Children on riding mowers have the potential to fall and be run over by the mower, resulting in serious injury and/or amputation of the extremities.
• Any time adults are using a lawn mower, they should make sure to keep children out of the yard and in a well-supervised area to avoid injury.
• Lawn mower operators should wear protective gear including pants, steel-toed boots, goggles and ear protection, excluding portable music players.
• Make sure all debris (rocks, sticks and toys) are removed from the yard before you begin mowing. Loose objects can project out of the lawn mower and cause serious injury.
• Riding mowers have the potential to tip or roll over if used on slopes or steep hills, which can result in serious injury.

• Always read the lawn mower owner’s manual for operating and care instructions. The owner’s manual will provide instruction on fueling the machine and on proper use.

A lawn mower is much more than just a simple, everyday power tool sitting in your garage – just ask the 75,000 American adults and children who are injured in lawn mower accidents each year. But with a little extra lawn mower caution and safety, many of the serious and even life-threatening injuries often caused by lawn mowers can be prevented. So, before you even pull your lawn mower out of the garage, <strong>Please read your safety manual</strong>!

A lawn mower definitely has the potential to become an extremely dangerous instrument when it’s used carelessly or without the proper safety precautions. Lawn mower injuries can be devastating to the patients and their families, so it’s important to never take lawn mower safety for granted. The vast majority of lawn mower injuries are preventable.

Riding lawn mowers cause some of the most serious injuries for both adults and children. Adults often allow young children to ride on their lap while they cut the lawn, which is never a good idea. With young passengers riding aboard the mowers, there is always the potential that they could fall off the machine while it’s running. This type of occurrence can result in the child’s hands, feet or entire body being run over by the mower, often resulting in limb amputation or a life-long debilitation injury.

In fact, the American Academy of Orthopaedic Surgery and the American Academy of Pediatrics both recommend that children should not even operate riding lawn mowers until they are 16 years old. But with proper adult supervision, a younger teen can operate a regular push power mower.

In addition, any time adults are using lawn mowers, they should make sure to keep children out of the yard and in a well-supervised area to avoid injury. Nearly 10,000 children in America are injured each year as the result of a lawn mower accident.

Adults, too, need to use extra caution while operating a riding mower to protect themselves from personal injury.

Riding mowers have the potential to tip over onto the driver when going up slopes, often resulting in serious injury to the hands and feet.

Also, with both riding mower and traditional power mowers, it’s important to make sure the yard is free of loose objects, like sticks or rocks, that can project out of the mower during use and cause injury to the face or eyes.

Personal protective equipment is also a must for anyone cutting the lawn. To prevent injury, I suggests that everyone who operates a lawn mower wear pants, steel-toed boots and goggles.

“Loose or scanty clothing could potentially put you at risk for becoming burned by the machine or injured by projectiles. You should wear relatively close-fitting clothing and non-skid, strong footwear like hiking boots that could provide some safety if a blade should come too close to the foot.

In addition, I suggest using some form of hearing protection, since lawn mowers, at an average of 95 decibels, are extremely loud. However, I caution lawn mower operators against using portable music players, which may distract the operator from other potential dangers.

And with more than 22 percent of lawn mower injuries involving the hands, fingers or wrist, it’s important to always make sure the engine is off and the mower blade has completely stopped rotating and remove the spark plug before attempting to remove debris from the mower or make adjustments.

Lawn mower operators should also use extra caution when fueling the machine. Improper fueling can result in burns or explosions, which could cause the loss of an eye, limb, skin or prove fatal. In all cases, lawn mower owners are strongly encouraged to read their owner’s manuals for proper safety operating instructions.